How Concrete Can be Made Stronger and More Durable?

How Concrete Can be Made Stronger and More Durable?

How Concrete Can be Made Stronger and More Durable?


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Home Page > News and Society > Free > How Concrete Can be Made Stronger and More Durable?

How Concrete Can be Made Stronger and More Durable?

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Posted: Nov 04, 2008 |Comments: 0
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Concrete is an artificial engineering material made from a mixture of Portland cement, water, fine and coarse aggregates together with a small amount of air. It is among the most widely used  materials for construction in the world. Concrete is the only major building material that can be delivered to the job site in a plastic state (that is, capable of being moulded). This unique quality makes concrete desirable as a building material because it can be moulded to virtually any form or shape. Concrete provides wide latitude in surface textures and colors and can be used to construct a wide variety of structures, such as highways and streets, large buildings, airport runways, irrigation structures, breakwaters, piers and pavements, silos and farm buildings, homes, and even barges. Other desirable qualities of concrete as a building material are its strength, economy, and durability. The tensile strength of concrete is much lower, but by using properly designed steel reinforcing structural members can be made that are as strong in tension as they are in compression.

The two major components of concrete are a cement paste and inert materials. The cement paste consists of Portland cement, water, and some air either in the form of naturally entrapped air voids or minute, intentionally entrained air bubbles. The inert materials are usually composed of fine aggregate (which is a material such as sand) and coarse aggregate, such as gravel, crushed stone. In general, fine aggregate particles are smaller than 6.4 mm in size, and coarse aggregate particles are larger. Depending on the thickness of the structure to be built, the size of coarse aggregate particles used can vary widely. In building relatively thin sections, a small size of coarse aggregate, with particles about 6.4 mm in size, is used. At the other extreme, aggregates up to 15 cm or more in diameter are used in large dams. In general the maximum size of coarse aggregates should not be larger than one fifth of the narrowest dimensions of the concrete member in which it is used.

When Portland cement is mixed with water the compounds of the cement react to form a cementing medium. In properly mixed concrete each particle of sand and coarse aggregate is completely surrounded and coated by this paste, and all spaces between the particles are filled with it. As the cement paste sets and hardens, it binds the aggregates into a solid mass. Under normal conditions concrete grows stronger as it grows older. The chemical reactions between cement and water that cause the paste to harden and bind the aggregates together require time. The reactions take place very rapidly at first and then more slowly over a long period. In the presence of moisture concrete continues to gain strength for years. 

Concrete mixtures are usually specified in terms of the dry-volume ratios of cement, sand, and coarse aggregates used. A 1:2:3 mixtures, for instance, consists of 1 part by volume of cement, 2 parts of sand, and 3 parts of coarse aggregate. Depending on the applications the proportions of the ingredients in the concrete can be altered to produce specific changes in its properties, particularly strength and durability. The ratios can vary from 1:2:3 to 1:2:4 and 1:3:5. The amount of water added to these mixtures is about 1 to 1.5 times the volume of the cement. For high-strength concrete, the water content is kept low, with just enough water added to wet the entire mixture. In general, the more water in a concrete mix, the easier it is to work with, but the weaker the hardened concrete becomes.

Concrete can be made to have any degree of water tightness. It can be made to hold water and resist the penetration of wind-driven rains. On the other hand, for purposes such as constructing filter beds, concrete can be made porous and highly permeable. Concrete can also be given a polished surface that is as smooth as glass. By using heavy aggregates, including steel fragments, dense concrete mixtures can be made that weigh 4,005 or more kg/cu m (250 or more lb/cu ft). Concrete that weighs only 480 kg/cu m (30 lb/cu ft) can be made by using special lightweight aggregates and foaming techniques. Forms consisting of such lightweight aggregates can be floated on water, sawed into pieces, or nailed to another surface.

For small jobs and minor repairs, concrete can be mixed by hand, but machine mixing ensures more uniform batches and, therefore, superior performance. For most home repairs and improvements, for example, floors, paths, driveways, patios, and garden pools, the recommended proportion is a 1:2:3 mix. After exposed surfaces of concrete have hardened sufficiently to resist marring, they should be cured by sprinkling or ponding (covering) with water or by using moisture-retaining materials such as waterproof paper, plastic sheets, wet burlap, or sand. Special curing sprays are available. The longer concrete is kept moist, the stronger and more durable it will become. In hot weather, it should be kept moist for at least three days. In cold weather drying concrete must not be allowed to freeze. This can be accomplished by covering the cement with a tarpaulin or some other material that helps trap the heat generated by the chemical reactions within the concrete that cause it to harden.

Concrete is poured into place in a number of ways. For the footings of small buildings the wet concrete is poured directly into trenches dug into the earth below frost level. Concrete for foundations and certain types of walls is placed between supporting wood or metal “forms” that are removed after the concrete has hardened. In lift-slab construction, floors and roof slabs are cast at ground level and then raised by hydraulic jacks and fastened to columns at the desired elevation. Slip forms are used to produce vertical shafts for silos and the cores of buildings. They are moved upward at a rate of 15 to 38 cm (6 to 15 in) per hour while concrete and reinforcements are put in place. The tilt-up method of construction is frequently used for one- and two-storeyed buildings. Walls are cast in place on the ground or on the previously laid concrete floor and tilted into position. The walls are joined at the corners or between panels with cast-in-place concrete columns. To pave a highway or road with concrete, a slip-form paver is used. Two metal side forms are connected to a slip-form paver. A layer of concrete is poured between the side forms as the paver slowly moves forward on its treads; the side forms keep the concrete in position as it dries. Slip-form pavers can lay continuous strips of one or two lanes of concrete pavement.

For certain applications, such as the construction of swimming pools, canal linings, and curved surfaces, concrete may be applied by the shot Crete method. In shotcreting, concrete is sprayed under pneumatic pressure rather than placed between forms. Often the use of shotcrete eliminates the need for formwork and permits placement of concrete in confined areas where conventional forms would be difficult or impossible to construct. Air-entrained concrete is concrete in which minute air bubbles are intentionally trapped by the addition of an admixture to the cement, either during its manufacture or during the batching and mixing of the concrete. The presence of a properly distributed amount of these bubbles imparts desirable properties to both freshly mixed and hardened concrete. In freshly mixed concrete, entrained air acts as a lubricant, improving the workability of the mix, thereby reducing the amount of water that needs to be added. Entrained air also reduces the need for fine material (sand). Entrained air in hardened concrete dramatically reduces the scaling that might otherwise result from the use of chemicals to melt ice on roads and streets. It also prevents damage to pavements caused by freezing and thawing. The air bubbles function as minute safety valves by providing room for the free water in concrete to expand harmlessly as freezing occurs.

Concrete masonry consists of block- and brick-building units moulded out of concrete and used in all types of masonry construction. Concrete masonry is used for load-bearing and non-load-bearing walls; piers; partitions; fire walls; back-up for walls of stones; fireproofing over steel structural members; fire-safe walls around stairwells, lifts, and other enclosures; retaining walls and garden walls; chimneys and fireplaces; concrete floors; and many other purposes. About 60 per cent of all concrete masonry units, such as cinder blocks, are made with lightweight aggregates. Blast-furnace slag, natural volcanic aggregates, and cinders are the lightweight aggregates most commonly used. The size of the masonry unit most commonly used for walls, both below and above ground, is 20 by 20 by 40 cm (8 by 8 by 16 in). Masonry units are laid horizontally, and are cored to reduce weight and to provide an insulating air space within the block. New types of concrete masonry, such as split and slump block, are being used as facing in homes, commercial buildings, schools, churches, and municipal facilities.  Basic block types are fairly well standardized today. Specific types can usually be supplied for any construction without cutting or fitting. Special moulds are available for the production of patterned shadow effects on exterior and interior block walls. It is possible to supply virtually any color or type of texture.

Concrete used in most construction work is reinforced with steel. When concrete structural members must resist extreme tensile stresses, steel supplies the necessary strength. Steel is embedded in the concrete in the form of a mesh, or roughened or twisted bars. A bond forms between the steel and the concrete, and stresses can be transferred between both components. Prestressing concrete has removed many limitations on the spans and loads for which a concrete structure can be economically designed. The basic function of Prestressing is to greatly reduce the tensile stresses to which crucial areas of concrete structures are subjected. Prestressing is accomplished by stretching high-strength steel to induce compressive stresses in concrete. The strengthening effect of compression in concrete acts like horizontally squeezing a row of books: when sufficient pressure is applied to the books at each end, compressive stresses are induced throughout the entire row; thus, although the centre volumes are unsupported, the books can be lifted, and carried horizontally.

Compressive stresses are induced in prestressed concrete by either pre-tensioning or post-tensioning the steel reinforcement. In the pre-tensioning process, the steel is stretched before the concrete is placed. After the concrete has hardened around the tensioned reinforcement, the stretching forces are released. The steel shortens somewhat, and because of the bond between the steel and concrete, the compressive stress in the concrete increases. In post-tensioning, the concrete is cast around, but not in contact with, unstretched steel. The steel is stretched after the concrete has hardened by anchoring one end against the concrete and using hydraulic jacks to pull the other end. After stretching, the second end is also anchored, compressing the concrete.

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All About Decorative Concrete – Stamped Concrete, Stained Concrete, Scored Concrete And Polished Concrete

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All About Decorative Concrete – Stamped Concrete, Stained Concrete, Scored Concrete And Polished Concrete


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Home Page > Home Improvement > All About Decorative Concrete – Stamped Concrete, Stained Concrete, Scored Concrete And Polished Concrete

All About Decorative Concrete – Stamped Concrete, Stained Concrete, Scored Concrete And Polished Concrete

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Introduction to Decorative Concrete

Decorative concrete, also commonly referred to as architectural concrete, can most easily be described as any technique that alters what would be plain, grey concrete to be more aesthetically pleasing. Decorative concrete can encompass many different looks and techniques. It can include simple coloring techniques such as acid stains, acrylic stains, concrete dyes, and integral colors (also called integrated colors; mixed into the concrete before it is poured). It can also include special treatments including stamping, scoring, chiseling, and polishing that can change the texture of the surface. Many times, decorative concrete integrates multiple techniques to truly customize the slab.

Stained Concrete

Probably one of the most well-known techniques for transforming plain concrete to be more design-friendly is staining, especially for interior applications. This technique involves taking a cured concrete slab and literally staining it to be a different color (or colors). There are two main types of concrete stain. The most common type of concrete stain is an acid stain. It is known for producing rich color. The acid reacts to the concrete and takes on its own life. The result is a marbleized coloring, much like grainy leather. It is probably one of the most difficult stains to work with; it requires much caution while applying because you are working with acid, after all. This stain does not cover defects in the concrete. On the contrary, it will likely show defects, even those you didn’t see when the concrete was in its natural state. However, this character that the acid stain reveals is part of the allure of the finished product of an acid stain job. Water-based concrete stains and acrylic concrete stains create a much more uniform look than do acid stains. These stains have a thin, milky consistency, allowing them to seep into the concrete’s pores, which differentiates them from any concrete paint, which can flake off because paints simply coat the surface. Because there is no chemical reaction between the stain and the concrete, it applies more like a dye.

It is a better alternative than acid stain for concrete pads that have cosmetic defects because coverage is fairly consistent. However, it is still a semi-translucent stain, so it will not completely disguise soils and other defects in the concrete. Water-based stains are also commonly called concrete dyes. It is often used to accent the work of an acid stain job by giving certain areas of the concrete a different color. Acrylic stains offer a wide variety of deep and bright colors with a much broader selection than acid stain offers. Also, whereas acid stains rely on a reaction with the concrete to produce color, the acrylic stain colors are usually the same in the bottle as they are on the concrete. This makes predicting the outcome much easier. It also allows for easier mixing at the jobsite to match other colors around. After the stain job is complete, it is recommended to put some sort of protective coating on the surface. This will prevent fading and wear. For outdoor applications, a concrete sealer is recommended. A solvent sealer or xylene-based sealer will leave a durable, semi-gloss coat, whereas a water-based sealer will leave a matte finish. For indoor applications, it is generally recommended to apply a wax, much like that which is used on a gym floor. In summary, staining is usually a good option if you have a concrete slab currently that you would like to add color to. Stains do not hide defects in the concrete, nor do they change the texture of the concrete. They simply add a semi-transparent, semi-permanent color. There are many tools and techniques that expand design options when using concrete stain. For example, there are stencils on the market that allow for a color design. Also, scored lines are also commonly used to add a pattern or design into the concrete.

Stain can also be used in conjunction with stamped concrete to add accent coloring. Plus, there are many different ways to apply stain to achieve different looks. advantages of stained concrete. Of course, the greatest advantage of stained concrete is the visual appeal. Staining concrete allows you to turn a functional element into a design element. Plus, with the wide array of colors and designs, staining can be used to compliment almost any design theme. Another advantage of stained concrete is that it is a semi-permanent, durable option. Because you are simply altering the color of concrete without altering its physical strength, your stained concrete will have the life of a boring, white slab (which some concrete is engineered to last more than fifty years!). Also, because the color is actually seeped into the concrete versus a layer on top like paint, it will not flake off like paint tends to. Stain can also be described as a “green” renovation project because you can simply transform what you already have, which means less waste in our landfills caused by starting over. In addition, staining requires no extra material aside from sealer or wax to make the flooring surface ready for use. Stained concrete is just as easy to maintain as a regular concrete slab if not easier because the sealer prevents stains and rinses easily. It may require a new coat of sealer or wax occasionally to maintain the finish. A simple broom or hose will often clean the surface adequately. Finally, another advantage of stained concrete is that it is relatively inexpensive compared to other options while yielding a custom, unique product.

Stamped Concrete

Stamped concrete is another common technique of decorative concrete. It literally involves stamping a pattern and/or texture into freshly laid concrete. That being said, stamped concrete requires that new concrete is poured. This isn’t to say that you can’t add a stamped pattern or texture to your existing patio, it just requires a few intermediate steps. If you have an existing concrete pad that you want to add a stamped pattern or texture to, it requires adding a layer of concrete or overlay mixture. Of course, concrete is preferable, as it is one of world’s most durable materials; however, concrete will require a minimum of two inch height increase. There is another product available, often called an overlay mix, that can be applied as little as three-eighths inches thick. However, this plastic-cement polymer does have a shorter life-span than does concrete. There are limitations to capping your patio with concrete or overlaying it. If your patio is cracked or structurally unsound, it is risky to put any coating on it because that coating will likely crack and shift as well. Capping or overlaying your concrete will effectively hide any stains and minor defects in the concrete, though. The process involves pouring concrete much like you would do for ordinary flatwork. The area is framed up, reinforced with rebar, and smoothed out. In order to stamp, the concrete must be dry enough to not be mushy but wet enough to still hold an impression. The timing is perhaps one of the most difficult aspects of stamping. At this point, large rubber stamps are pounded into the concrete, many times with a tool called a tamper. Some sort of release product is used to keep the stamps from sticking. Other special tools, including “flippie” stamps, grout rollers, etc are used to perfect the area. The coloring of stamped concrete can be achieved in many different ways. Some of the coloring materials available for use with stamped concrete include integral/integrated colors, antiquing release colors, color hardeners, and tinted sealers. Integral colors, also called integrated colors, is color that is mixed into the concrete before it is poured. Integral colors come in both liquid and powder form.

The advantage of integral color is that the color is all the way through the concrete, so if the concrete is ever chipped or scarred, the color will be consistent throughout the slab. Antiquing release colors are usually a powder color applied to the surface before stamping occurs. Its functional aspect is that it keeps the stamps from sticking to the concrete. Its aesthetic aspect is that when the excess powder is scrubbed off, it leave behind great accent coloring in the grooves and crevices. Some release colors also come in a liquid form. Color hardeners are applied to the surface of the concrete. They are used to add color to freshly poured concrete. Because they have a cement content and high PSI, we do not recommend their use in climates that change rapidly because color hardeners can cause what we have coined as a “popcorn” effect, where small circles actually pop out of the surface of the concrete. Color hardeners are usually a powder and come in a wide variety of colors. Tinted sealers are just as you would think; they are sealers that have a transparent color tint added in. Some manufacturers make tinted sealers, or you can simply make them yourself, which is usually a good way to go if you are wanting to mix colors or play with transparency. Before you do this though, you need to know what kind of sealer you have and what kind of color product would mix with it. Tinted sealers also come in a wide variety of color options, especially if you will be making it yourself.

Most of the time, contractors will use a variety of coloring techniques to achieve your look. Contractors may also use the technique that is most familiar to them, leaving the others behind. One thing is for sure: make sure that you quiz your contractor about the coloring techniques they use to make sure you are given the information you need to properly pick your colors. Also, make sure he/she isn’t selling you on coloring techniques that may not be suitable for your climate area. advantages of stamped concrete. For the sake of accuracy, this paragraph does not take into account any overlay products because these products do not carry all of the same advantages that concrete does. Stamped concrete, if it is true concrete, often carries with it many advantages. First, it is known for its durability and longevity; after all, it is concrete! Because it is so durable, it can also be described as an environmentally-friendly option because it won’t have to be replaced in the near future, meaning more materials won’t need to be manufactured and less materials will end up in landfills. Also, it is easy to maintain. The sealer allows cleaning to be as easy as rinsing or sweeping. Occasionally, you will need to recoat the surface with sealer, which is an easy spray or roll on process. Finally, stamped concrete is aesthetically pleasing. It is completely customizable with a wide variety of color combinations and stamp patterns. And, considering how long it will last and how easy it is to maintain, it is a low cost in the long run for a beautiful finish.

Scored Concrete

Scored concrete is a great way to give both new pours and existing pour a new look. Scoring concrete is essentially cutting a shallow cut into the concrete. These cuts can be used to create the illusion of tile or stone or to “draw” a custom pattern or logo into the concrete. Because these lines are actually cut into the concrete, they are as permanent as the slab itself unless covered. Scoring is often combined with colored or stained concrete to accentuate the surface pattern. It can also be applied to plain concrete to just add a touch of decorative design to an otherwise humdrum slab. Concrete can be scored with many different tools, but the most common tools are concrete saws and grinders. Many times a diamond blade is used. For a more rustic or rough look, chiseling the lines is a great method, although it can be more labor intensive and tedious. advantages of scored concrete. Because scoring can be a way to add decorative touches to a slab without tearing out the slab and starting over or covering the slab with other products, it is a very economical and eco-friendly approach to decorative concrete. Also, it is as permanent as the slab is, which means there will be little to no upkeep. Maintenance will involve simple cleaning, which is as easy as sweeping or rinsing. If the scored concrete is sealed, it may require resealing periodically. Finally, the biggest advantage of scored concrete is that it is completely custom.

Polished Concrete

Polished concrete is, just as it sounds, a concrete slab that is polished down until a shiny finish is achieved. These smooth, high-luster floors, if done correctly, do not require any wax or sealer, making it a great option for warehouses, retail locations, etc. But, homeowners are quickly learning that this technique can be utilized for a low maintenance interior flooring. The process is similar in theory to sanding wood. You start with a rough pad and grind into the concrete. Then you move to smoother and smoother pads, step by step, until your finished product is a shiny, smooth floor. Usually, there will be exposed aggregate, making it a neat look. Polished concrete can be stained for some extra color. Or, integral color can be used before the pour to add color throughout. Special, and expensive, tools and materials are often necessary to get a polished finish. advantages of polished concrete. Polished concrete is very durable because it is concrete, one of the most durable materials known to man. It is also very low maintenance because wax or sealer may not be necessary. Sometimes, if the floor loses its luster, it may be necessary to re-polish the floor, repeating the last steps of the polishing process. Polished concrete can also be a great design feature because it is unique and customizable. Colors can be added for a different look, and even special aggregates can be added, aggregates that are only exposed because of the polishing process.

Sealing Concrete

All architectural concrete, except polished concrete and interior stained concrete, should be sealed regularly to maintain its beauty and durability. This process can be outsourced to a concrete company, or it can be a great do-it-yourself project. The process is usually very easy, requiring a spray-on or roll-on application. Some sealers are even mop-on. The most important aspect of resealing a patio is knowing what the original coat of sealer is. If you choose the wrong sealer, you can end up with a huge mess that will be time and money demanding to repair. It is best to contact whoever sealed your patio the first time to know what kind of sealer you should use to recoat your decorative concrete. Sealing concrete makes it stain and fade resistant. It is a protective coating that usually gives a bit of a sheen to the surface, bringing out the richness of the colors used in the decorative concrete, no matter which technique. Many times, freshly sealed concrete can be described as making the concrete look wet. Many times an older patio can be resealed to make it look like new again. Plain concrete can also be sealed for a more modern look that is easy to maintain and resistant to being stained. Sealing concrete will not cover any existing flaws in the slab. Stains will likely be accentuated by the sealant, and scratches or cracks will only be covered with a clear coat. Tinted sealers, as discussed above, can be used to add some color to a slab, whether it is plain or decorative.

concrete vs. other flooring options

Tile. Tiles can come in a variety of colors and patterns, but you are limited to what options are presented to you. Concrete offers the flexibility to choose your look, much like mixing paint. Tile requires a stable pad on which to be laid, which means often times you will need concrete anyway. Plus, the concrete, tile, and grout expands and contracts at different rates, making it susceptible to cracking, especially in outdoor conditions. Also, with tile comes grout lines, which means you have to scrub grout lines. Enough said? natural stone/flagtone. Much like tile, flagstone and natural stone usually requires a concrete base and grout for a semi-permanent slab, which means it comes with the same disadvantages as tile. Plus, you are limited to what mother nature makes, versus picking your own colors with concrete. If the concrete base or grout/mortar are not used, you will end up with an uneven nightmare with weeds growing between the stones. That doesn’t sound like fun! brick. Brick carries with it the same issues as natural stone, flagstone, and tile. >linoleum/vinyl. Although cheap and easy to care for, linoleum and vinyl are not as durable as concrete, nor do they have the aesthetic and “rich” look that concrete offers. Wood. Although beautiful, wood is not the easiest to maintain. It can easily scratch or nick, and it often requires revamp after a few years, especially if not maintained properly. Plus, unless it is taken from sustainable forests, can have negative effects on the forest and wildlife therein. Carpet. Carpet’s main disadvantage is that it easily stains. Even stain resistant carpet is much more likely to stain than sealed , waxed, or polished concrete. Plus, the manufacturing process is not always best for the environment, the chemicals it emits into the home can be harmful, and it retains allergens and pollutants, causing issues for those with breathing problems and allergies.

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Any one know how to remove the acid stains in homogeneous tiles. I used acid remove solutions to remove it but it seems no reaction. Can i polish the tiles. i need your advise
What are the colors of the polish flag ?
How long does stamped concrete last?

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Decorative Concrete is the Alternative to Mold

Decorative Concrete is the Alternative to Mold

Decorative Concrete is the Alternative to Mold


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Decorative Concrete is the Alternative to Mold

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Even if we are not aware of it, mold spores can reside anywhere that there is moisture, and can be breathed into the lungs compromising lung capacity, the immune system and creating health problems. As a result, it is essential when building out your basement, to find products and processes that either eliminate or substantially reduce mold growth.

One of the best products and processes available today is the use of decorative concrete. Mold can be virtually eliminated by staining the concrete floor or adding thin layers of concrete on the surface of the slab that is the floor of the basement, and then sealing the new floor, in a process called decorative concrete. Once this is complete, using area rugs and other decorative but portable and removable floor coverings will help combat mold.

I usually do not venture into personal or family aspects when providing information such as this article, however, in this piece I feel it is essential. My family and I moved into a great home on an acre of land in the mostly dry high desert. We were in the process of building out the basement into a family room, extra bedroom and small office.

One of my family members became so ill that in a four month period she went from working and being busy and active 24/7 to barely being able to get from the bed to the bathroom. She was wheezing and her skin was looking pale and gray. The rest of us were getting headaches and having throat problems, but our symptoms were not nearly as extreme. The doctors put her on antibiotics and declared that she had pneumonia. Even with medicine, the symptoms continued.

By sheer accident one afternoon, a friend suggested that the symptoms might be from mold. We had no experience with this, so we started researching and we had the house inspected. There was a tremendous amount of mold growth – under wood and parquet floors and into the walls. We were told to move immediately. Within a week of moving my family member was up and around, breathing better and working again.

Unfortunately, she had to stay on anti-fungal and anti-bacterial medicines and it will take some time for her lung capacity to get better. It may not get to 100% again.

I share this story because of how quickly and seriously a mold problem – particularly in the basement, which was directly under this individual’s bedroom – created a health problem, even though there was no mold to be seen. When the wood floors were pulled up, they were black and green on the under side in room after room.

The inspector who found the mold said that the best way to use a basement was to make sure the slab was clean and then use various colors or textures and seal the floor – in other words, decorative concrete.

My current home does not have a basement, however, I already know exactly what I will do if I purchase a house with one. I will use decorative concrete as an insurance policy to keep my family safe from mold.

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The nice thing about decorative concrete is that it not only beautifies an area but it as diverse as it’s designer and quite cost effective. We will bring you tips and ideas but for additional resources visit Www.concreteideas.com.

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New house one floor. Best foundation, reinforced large slab or traditional walls (reinforced plinth) with infill concrete floors? This is in respect to the ground “wave” motion of earthquake
We are considering putting beaded board (4′x 8′) over existing wallpaper in our bathroom. Should we be concerned that mold will form under the paneling from moisture from the shower?
Once problem trees are removed will soil rehydrate and is further movement/damage likely to occur. how long after removal of trees could we errect a shed with concrete slab

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The nice thing about decorative concrete is that it not only beautifies an area but it as diverse as it’s designer and quite cost effective. We will bring you tips and ideas but for additional resources visit Www.concreteideas.com.

More A And S Concrete Articles

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Got Decorative Concrete? It’s not Just for Driveways Anymore!

Got Decorative Concrete? It’s not Just for Driveways Anymore!

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Home Page > Home Improvement > Got Decorative Concrete? It’s not Just for Driveways Anymore!

Got Decorative Concrete? It’s not Just for Driveways Anymore!

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Posted: Apr 28, 2008 |Comments: 0
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It used to be that when we thought of concrete, we thought of just a few things, such as sidewalks, driveways and cement slab house foundations. Most of the time the concrete used has been a pretty dull gray. Once in a while, for instance, in some southwestern towns, we could find some sidewalks that were various shades of rust and orange that mimic the beautiful mountains in their midst.

In the past decade, however, concrete has changed from a basic utility to a decorative enhancement, a creative and artistic essential in creating the

mood of resorts and homes throughout the world. Decorative concrete has become an integral part of the planning for many building plans – whether

commercial or private. The colors and textures of decorative concrete have become so important that often they are the centerpiece or focal point of a floor plan.

This phenomenon has changed the way that homes are created and office buildings, malls and other buildings are created. Imagine your basement

floors being the color of your choice, sealed to keep out mold and setting the tone for everything from the color and texture on your walls and the

furniture you buy.

Think about your kitchen counters being custom poured and cured right in your home in the color and texture you want – at about the same cost as a

pre-made countertop. Think of the hundreds of ways you could plan your decor around your custom countertop and matching or complementing floors.

Decorative concrete can do all this and more.

If you are planning to build or remodel a home, office, mall or any other type of structure, landscape, patio or pool, take the time to look into decorative concrete. You will be pleasantly surprised at what you find.

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About the Author:

AnaLise is a professional writer and blogger. Currently, AnaLise is blogging for multiple sites including www.concreteideas.com. To view the entire list of sites and gather more information please visit Majestic Help on the web at www.majestichelp.com.

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Source:  http://www.articlesbase.com/home-improvement-articles/got-decorative-concrete-its-not-just-for-driveways-anymore-398588.html

Article Tags:
concrete, decorative concrete, sidewalk, driveway, cement, countertop, texture

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Use of this web site constitutes acceptance of the Terms Of Use and Privacy Policy | User published content is licensed under a Creative Commons License.
Copyright © 2005-2011 Free Articles by ArticlesBase.com, All rights reserved.

AnaLise is a professional writer and blogger. Currently, AnaLise is blogging for multiple sites including www.concreteideas.com. To view the entire list of sites and gather more information please visit Majestic Help on the web at www.majestichelp.com.

Best known for her work as lead singer and bassist in the ’80s and early-’90s alternative rock trio Concrete Blonde, Johnette Napolitano is also a poet, social activist, soundtrack composer, and sculptor. Born in Hollywood on September 22, 1957, Napolitano lurked on the fringes of the Los Angeles punk and new wave scene, working at the legendary Gold Star Studios until she formed the duo Dream 6 with guitarist Jim Mankey. The pair recorded a self-titled 1982 EP produced by Jim’s brother Earle Mankey (like Jim, a former member of the first lineup of Sparks, and at the time one of the hottest producers on the LA new wave scene), which attracted the attention of IRS Records boss Miles Copeland. With a new drummer in Chicago transplant Harry Rushakoff and a new name supposedly bestowed by REM’s Michael Stipe that was supposed to connote the band’s mix of hard and soft elements, Concrete Blonde released their self-titled debut in 1987. This was quickly followed by Free, Bloodletting (featuring the group’s biggest hit, “Joey”), Walking in London, and Mexican Moon, before Concrete Blonde split in 1995.
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With this video we’ll show you how to properly set the corner block and build each course for a straight, level and structurally sound wall. Sakrete makes a number of products for masonry projects. To install a block wall, Sakrete Type S Mortar Mix is a great product. Constructing a wall can be a challenging project.
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would you like panic attacks gone totally?

Finding a successful way to stop panic attacks is often seen by some people as being an impossibility. Even after trying many different types of help to be free of the anxiety and panic, these attacks can still control their day to day life. Visiting a therapist to receive counselling or adopting a more healthy lifestyle are some of the ways people try to find help. some read self help books or take medication with an anti-anxiety drug which is sometimes prescribed. But many people are not aware that practicing mindfulness meditation has been found to be a very successful form of help in curing anxiety-related problems.

If all this talk of mindfulness meditation is relatively new to you, it’s understandable that you will be uncertain if this will really help to stop panic attacks. Meditation has been used for a great many years to calm the mind and body and mindfulness meditation is a variation which is used successfully by people who suffer with anxiety related problems. It basically requires you to concentrate completely on your breathing and to rid your mind of any other thoughts. If your mind wanders to different things you just gently bring it back to being aware of your breaths. You will discover this practice will be a definite help when working towards ending panic attacks.

Some thought and preparation is needed when you decide you would like to try this type of meditation for yourself. You will need to make sure you allow yourself sufficient time to devote to your mindfulness meditation. It is very important that you can be completely relaxed and you will not be disturbed during this time, so you will need to find a peaceful and tranquil place. So it may be a good idea to decide beforehand on a regular time each day where you can be completely relaxed and not be distracted. This will enable you to get real benefits from your meditation.

And when it comes time to actually do the mindfulness meditation, it couldn’t be easier. It’s a simple 3 step process. 1, sit or lie in your quiet place and tune out for a few minutes to prepare. 2, focus entirely on your breathing and the sensations in your body for 5 or 10 minutes, doing your best to think of nothing but your breathing for the entire period of time. And 3, open your eyes and slowly adjust to the world around you for a few minutes before you end your meditation and get back on with your day. Doing this simple meditation each day for just a few minutes really will help you to stop panic attacks even in the most severe cases.

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